Got Pads? Replacing Brake Pads on a Harley With ABS

This has been a long requested maintenance topic for over a year. How to replace
brake pads on a Harley that has an anti-lock brake system. There are differences
in the process for successfully changing the pads but nothing most people wouldn’t be
able to perform on their own at home and save a load of money doing so. Lets take a
look at the differences.

The biggest point to be addressed is with the Dot 4 brake fluid in the brake lines.
Because of the anti-lock brake module it is critical that the system remain free of air.
Any small amount of air that enters the line will cause the anti-lock brake module to
become ineffective in its purpose of pulsing the brakes to bring the bike to a quick stop.
As long as you keep the brake system sealed and not allow air into the line then changing
the brake pads can be done at home.

When changing the pads you will need to first pump a little bit of brake fluid out of the
master cylinder to make room to the brake fluid that is in the calipers. You only want to
pump out just enough to bring the level down to about halfway in the master cylinder.
This will keep the brake system sealed and free of air.

There is also a wheel speed sensor on the left front caliper area and also on the rear
brake caliper area. Not to worry though, these are only cables that will need to be moved
out of the way so you can work on the caliper. There is really nothing you can do to cause
harm to these sensors unless you physically cut them which unless your purpose
is to do so, isn’t going to happen.

Once you get the caliper off, depress the pistons into the cylinder bore to make
room for the new pads, your at the halfway point. Depressing the caliper pistons
will push brake fluid back into the master cylinder which is why you need to remove
some before removing the calipers. You don’t want brake fluid over flow from the master
cylinder getting all over that beautiful paint on your bike.

Install the pads as you would any on any bike whether it be ABS or non-ABS.
Reinstall the caliper. Once you have done all brakes related to the same master cylinder
it is time to compress those new pads to the rotor. Gently and fully compress or pull on
the brake handle or peddle, release, and repeat until you have brake action. Doing this
will push the fluid back down the line into the caliper from the master cylinder. It will
take a few runs through the process before the pads make contact with the rotor and give
you a tight brake. While doing this be aware of the fluid level in the master cylinder.
If it gets too low be sure to add some brake fluid. You don’t want to take a chance on it
getting low enough to allow air to enter the line. If air gets into the line you will have to
take your bike into the dealership and have them bleed the line digitally using digital
technician II software to purge the ABS module of any air that could have collected inside
that won't come out by conventional means. Once you have good tight brake on the lever
or pedal, refill the master cylinder back to the full mark and close it up.

Take it easy for about 100 miles to allow the pads to burn in before really grabbing
on them hard. The process can be done both front and back in its entirety in less than an
hour. This is a great money saving process, familiarizes you with your bike, and maintains
the safety factor of the brakes.

I got my brake pads online at Get Lowered Cycles and had them shipped to my front door.
This is a great convenience so you don’t have to spend time going to a parts house or
dealership. You can have them shipped and delivered to your home so they will be ready
for installation at any time.

How to Replace Brake Pads on a Harley with ABS

Ride Strong Wrench Proud

Carrying A Firearm While Riding a Motorcycle

This can be a very controversial subject and one I have been hesitant about delving
into for quite a long time. The more I thought about it though it become more clear
that a practical review of the subject would be helpful to a lot of riders that carry while
riding. I am licensed to carry and I do carry while riding. But how effective can that
firearm be if needed? That is what the focus of this post will be.

FIRST and Foremost!

Do you even have the legal right to carry a firearm? This is something you will need
to research as to the laws in the state or country you live in. I can only emphasize that
you need to be within your legal rights if you are planning on carrying a firearm.
If you are travelling outside the state you are licensed to carry or concealed carry in be
sure to check reciprocity of the states you will be travelling through. I want to emphasize
that using your firearm should always be the last resort to any situation. And if you do
have to pull it, you don’t necessarily have to shoot for the firearm to do what it was
intended to do which is to prevent you from being harmed. Often an attacker can be
discouraged just from seeing the firearm. If you’re one of those wannabe bad asses
that say “Only pull it if your going kill”, then, in my opinion, your civilian right to carry
should be revoked. It’s ignorant and uneducated thinking. I know first hand that pulling
a firearm on an attacker can stop an assault and discourage them from continuing
without having to pull the trigger.

Drawing a Firearm While Moving on Motorcycle

A motorcycle will always be at a disadvantage in an altercation on the road.
You simply cannot compete against a vehicle. You’re best defense is to back off, exit
the road, take evasive maneuvers, basically get away from a driver that is trying to harm
you. You are already in a compromised position by being on two wheels and with no
steel cage surrounding you. Taking one hand off the bars to draw a weapon only
magnifies your bad position.

If you do draw while moving you have just compromised your control over your
motorcycle. You’re now riding one handed. If you’re holding gun in the right hand
you have no throttle control. If you’re holding gun in your left hand, you have no
clutch control which could lead to stalling if decelerating quickly and not shifting down.
The simple ability to control the bike for avoidance or any type of quick maneuvering is
lessened considerably and you increase your chance of crashing without the help of
whoever it is your drawing against.

Next you have to consider the actual firing of the firearm. The force of the wind will
reduce accuracy immensely and must be taken into account.

One handed: You are going to be forced to fire one handed. This will reduce
accuracy of the shot.

One handed while moving: You will be shooting one handed while moving which further
reduces your accuracy.

One handed while moving and maintaining control over your motorcycle: Along with the
reduced accuracy of one handed shooting while moving you still have to maintain control
of your motorcycle possibly while trying to avoid being run over by the assailant in the
vehicle.

Off hand: If you carry to draw with your off hand to be able to maintain throttle control
you are even more disadvantaged at making an accurate shot, especially when you add
in all the previous mentioned factors.

Then you see riders with patches that read “Stay Back While I Reload” or “Hold on
While I Reload”. So what you’re are saying is you’re going to ride a motorcycle down
the road, trying to keep your eyes on the road while dealing with loading rounds, with
no hands while trying not to be run over by a motorist, while trying to put rounds in a
firearm, or reload a clip, and chamber a round? That is simply idiotic.

For the most part carrying while riding is really for defense when stopped, not while
moving down the road on a motorcycle.

The following picture shows the shots on the left that were fired in a controlled
situation at 3 meters (21 feet) using a Ruger LCR .357 magnum. I took about 1 second
to aim and let off 5 shots which would have been effective against an attacker. The shots
on the right were done using the same revolver. I drew from my holster without aiming
and fired off 5 rounds. This would be more realistic of the situation of drawing while
moving on a motorcycle. You won’t be able to use your sight, maintain control, avoid
being hit by the driver that is attacking you, and keep your eyes on the road.
You will also have to deal with the force of the wind blowing your arm and firearm
around making a steady shot near impossible. The rounds on the right side were more
scattered and far less effective. It would have been much worse on a moving motorcycle
and maybe even impossible to hit within a target area.

Consider State Laws About Display of Firearm

Again you are at a disadvantage from a vehicle. If you even show your firearm to scare
a motorist they have the ability to immediately make a phone call to the police and make
any statement they contrive describing what you supposedly did to them with a firearm.
You are the one at the disadvantage when the police become involved because the
accusation was made against you first. Unfortunately the person that makes the first
call to police making an accusation are the ones that don’t have to put up much if any
defense and it becomes your responsibility to prove your innocent or have been victimized.
It’s going to be near impossible to be the one that makes the first call to law
enforcement from a motorcycle.

Possible legal ramifications: These will vary state to state so you need to check your
state laws.

Lifting shirt or vest to show you have a firearm: This can be considered display of the firearm
which could cause you legal issues such as fines and arrest.

Drawing firearm and displaying it: This can be considered brandishing of a firearm which
could lead to fines and arrest as well.

Pointing the firearm at a motorist: This can be considered force. You need to be able to
prove there was reason to point your firearm at a motorist or you are probably going to
be arrested and charged.

Firing your firearm: You better be able to prove you felt your life was at risk to avoid
possible arrest and jail or even prison time. Again, you are at a disadvantage because the
motorist can make a quick call and say you fired at them for no reason which will force
you to have to make a defense.

Also, if any of these situations occurs and law enforcement becomes involved you could
temporarily or permanently lose your firearm and your license to carry pending the
outcome of the investigation. You will also have to pay for legal defense. You need to
seriously consider all the ramifications of using your firearm.

Types of Holsters & Ability to Draw Firearm

All holsters should include a trigger guard to help avoid accidental discharge.

Ankle holster: Having to lift pant leg to get to gun would cost time and could cause
ability to control the bike issues while trying to retrieve firearm.

Inside waistband holster: Quite uncomfortable while riding and could be difficult to
draw firearm.

Inside pocket holster: would make it difficult to have to dig around trying to pull the
gun out of the pocket. Will have to move around or even stand to get gun out which is
quite difficult while moving. This could even be a bad situation if you pull over and have
to quickly draw the gun. If the pocket is on the leg such as military fatigues this could be
a reasonable place to carry your firearm.

Belt or outside the waistband holster: Easy access both on and off bike.

Shoulder holster: Easy access both on and off bike.

Small of back: Easy access both on and off bike, might be uncomfortable while riding.

Wearing Different Types of Gear can also Increase the Difficulty of Drawing

Full jacket: Could cause you to have to unzip to retrieve firearm from inner pocket or
waist. This would apply to shoulder holster or waist holster.

Vest: Could cause you to have to reach in and possibly unbutton an inner pocket to
retrieve firearm.

Gun in saddlebag or tank pouch: Retrieval could take time especially if the luggage
has to be unzipped first.

Saddlebag Gun Safe or Vault: This is a great option for travelling through states that
might have strict gun laws. It is a poor option if you get into a situation where you need
your gun. You simply won’t have the time to open your saddlebag, then a secured vault,
get the gun and possibly load it, before your assailant is upon you.

If your firearm is carried off body you need to consider how will you transition to on body
at stops? If your carrying off body you should develop a routine for transitioning to on
body strategically so you're not showing the world you have a gun.

What Injuries Could be Caused if you Crash from Different Types of Holsters?

Something we don’t want to think about is crashing our motorcycles. The bodily
injury is almost always more sever than if you had crashed in a vehicle. You may want
to consider the added bodily damage that can occur if you are carrying a firearm during
a crash. Dependent on where your firearm is carried the firearm can increase the amount
of damage you sustain that may not have been inflicted had you not been carrying.

Shoulder holster or vest/ jacket pocket: Crushed chest, broken ribs, sever bruising in
mid and upper body.

Belt or outside the waistband holster: Hip damage, shattered pelvis.

Small of back: Because it’s against the spine there is increased potential for sever
injury or paralysis.

Revolver or Semi Auto

Revolver: Offers 5-6 shots guaranteed, no safety, round always ready. Careful using
revolvers with hammers as they can catch on material in pockets making drawing difficult.

Semi-automatic: Might have to chamber a round while riding thus riding with no
hands on handlebars, or have a round chambered with safety on, possibility of
jamming. If a round is chambered and safety is on, it is very easy to flip off the safety
quickly for use if need be.

Hopefully this article will provide some insight to riders that want to carry or already do.
If you have any hesitations about carrying while riding then you probably shouldn’t.
You need to be at complete comfort with the idea of carrying and be proficient with using
your firearm before you make the decision to carry it while riding.

Ride Strong Wrench Proud